Natural facial rejuvenation with active cosmetics

These active substances are valuable and their production costs are high. Therefore, the chemical industry is not idle: just as they have copied natural molecules and produced synthetic versions, cheaper synthetic chemical copies of living biotechnological active substances are emerging, made from inorganic materials. In many cases, it is difficult to tell whether an active substance is natural or chemically produced, even though there is a great difference in its efficacy, effectiveness, tolerability and potential for irritation.

A good example is the skin-derived active ingredient urea, which is an excellent moisturiser, but its synthetic version, imidazole urea, is highly damaging to the skin. It is therefore worth separating biotech high-tech agents from what the chemical industry calls synthetic high-tech substances and experience has shown that it is not advisable to mix them in treatments, because on damaged skin caused by a damaging substance, the cellular substances will not work as expected.

In this context, bio (bio face cream) has its true meaning, meaning natural, full of life and not controlled chemical-free, especially because biotechnology basically processes plants of pharmaceutical purity. Biotechnology active ingredients are most easily grouped by their effects, so they are easy to understand:

• dermal moisturisers, smoothers, anti-wrinkle products
• skin-zone structural engineers
• concentrated plant extracts, active ingredients
• nano signal peptides
• crystal colloids
• stable vitamins
• dermal emulsifiers, emollients
• vegetable soft tensides

Dermal active substances

They support the physiological processes of the skin without side effects, as they are themselves natural elements of the skin's structure or function. The most important are urea, lecithin, l-proline, lactic acid, free fatty acids, amino acids, pyrrolidine carboxylic acid, collagen and hyaluronic acid.

These include some high-tech biotechnology agents worth exploring in more depth. These are hyaluronic acids, collagen and ceramide, which cannot be missing from high-tech skin care.

1. Hyaluronic acid of animal origin can cause strong immune reactions even with the most careful purification, which is why modern medicinal hyaluronic acids are produced by biotechnological fermentation from glucose, soy peptone and yeast extract. Hyaluronic acid itself is a polysaccharide found in many parts of the human body, a giant glucose aminoglycan molecule that can be broken down enzymatically to smaller sizes to improve bioavailability. Studies have also revealed differences in efficacy that have further highlighted its importance. Thus, according to molecular weight, we can distinguish almost 10 types, which can be effectively divided into 4 halves. Macro, medium, micro and micro-plus hyaluronic acid, which, when used in combination, help and enhance each other's effects.

Macro HS (800-1200 KDa) - is the most commonly used hyaluronic acid. It acts in the top layer of the skin, its molecules simply attract water, hydrating collagen and elastin fibres. It can bind up to 500 times its weight in water, but its action is concentrated in the surface layer of the skin.

Medium HS (<50 kDa) - a bőr mélyebb rétegébe hatol, ahol különleges hatásával védi a bőrt a káros UV sugaraktól. Az erős UV sugárzás hatására egy káros szabad gyök képződik a bőrben (hidrogénperoxid). A médium hialuronsav megemeli a bőrben a kataláz enzim szintjét, ami ezt a hidrogénperoxidot vízzé és savvá alakítja át. Emellett gátolja a gyulladáskeltő anyagok hatását a bőrben. Mély szinten hidratálja a bőrt.

Micro HS (<5000 Da) - a bőr legmélyebb rétegébe jut el, ahol fontos szignál peptidek kiválasztására ösztönzi az őssejteket. Ezen, mint szignálpeptidek segítik a szöveti struktúrák újjáépítését. Ugyanakkor fokozza a saját hialuronsav termelődését is a szövetekben, ezáltal a bőr tartósan feszes és rugalmas lesz. Emellett gátolja a szövetbontó enzim működését (Mátrix Metallo Proteináz), így a kollagén és elasztin életciklusát hosszabbítja meg.

Microplus Crosslinked HS (< 5000 Da - 50kDa) - a mikro és makro HS optimális és speciális kombinációjával a hialuronsav még gyorsabban behatol a bőrbe, és a bőr teljes mélységében kibontja hatás spektrumát, és ezen kombináció révén képes hosszú távú depót kialakítani a bőrben.

2. Professional opinion on the effectiveness of collagen is divided. In my experience, animal collagens are harmful, but plant collagen, which is mainly made from corn, soy and wheat proteins, is an excellent bioactive agent. It is a natural plant polypeptide mixture produced by enzymatic hydrolysis. It increases the fibroblast activity responsible for collagen synthesis in the skin and binds a lot of moisture, keeping the skin smooth and fresh for longer.

3. dermal matrix building substances include skin matrix building substances, which ensure healthy skin elasticity and healthy epithelial structure. The epithelial layer is composed of metabolically inactive cells and an intercellular matrix of multiple layers of double-row lipids. Its boundary layers are composed mainly of ceramide, cholesterol and palmitic acid. The epidermal structure corresponding to the epithelial layer contains ceramide, phytosterols (very similar to cholesterol) and hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine (a special high-tech lecithin).

Regeneration of the damaged epithelium is also achieved primarily by ceramides, which are produced by the skin in the epidermis and released into the epithelium on about day 28 of the skin cell's life. The birth of new skin cells and their migration towards the stratum corneum must be protected and supported, as in this way, the cells are very sensitive to harmful environmental influences (free radicals, UV radiation). Hence the importance of liposomes based on organic natural lecithin and modern antioxidant agents such as stable vitamin C, stable vitamin E, Ferulic acid, Totarol.

Continue article...

Visit our webshop!