Chemical and/or physical sunscreen?

What is the difference between physical sunscreen and chemical sunscreen? Heaven and earth. But in short, chemical sunscreen is absorbed into the skin, soaking up UV rays and turning them into heat. Physical sunscreens, on the other hand, cover the tiny mineral particles that remain on the skin's surface, reflecting UV rays like a mirror.

User experience: chemical vs. physical sunscreen

Chemical sunscreen, because it is absorbed into the skin, does not leave a visible layer on your skin. Physical sunscreen, on the other hand, by its very mechanism of action, stays on the surface of the skin, leaving a light white layer. It may even be a little harder to blend. What I haven't mentioned is that physical sunscreens can come in different sizes in products. The nano sizes are typically very easy to spread, leaving less of a layer, whereas the non-nano ones typically leave a white layer.

Absorption: chemical vs. physical sunscreens

While many of you might say, "Oh, they're just creams, I don't eat them", I can tell you that research shows that chemical sunscreens are so absorbable that they are even present in breast milk.The data is not clear for physical sunscreens: nanoparticles can be thousands of different sizes, shapes and surfaces. The few studies on their absorption suggest that they are absorbed into the body at a moderate rate, but that inhaled or ingested (e.g. during spraying, swallowed as lip balm) they can enter the lungs, the digestive tract and from there into the bloodstream, where they can be harmful to health. There is not yet enough research to make a definitive verdict, but as a precautionary measure we recommend avoiding nano particles and not using products in spray form.

Which sunscreen is harmful, harmful or a cause for concern?

Almost all of them, one way or another. Most chemical sunscreens interfere with the hormonal system. They are also harmful to the environment, with many of them destroying corals, which is why their use has been banned in several countries. Physical sunscreens are more of a concern when inhaled - so don't use the spray version - when applied, the non-nano sizes are not absorbed and are safe.

The most common chemical sunscreens

The list of chemical sunscreens is growing almost every year - in many cases there is not yet enough research available to evaluate them. In addition, manufacturers tend to use the least known names for sunscreens, so many of the sunscreens in the list below may be listed under other names. All chemical sunscreens are absorbed into the skin!

To determine the level of concern, we use the scale on the Enviromental Working Group (EWG) website. The EWG scores shown are as of May 2021, with 1-2 indicating ingredients of current knowledge as safe, 3-6 indicating mild concern, and 7-10 indicating ingredients of high concern.

1) Oxibenzone - EWG score: 8 (high concern)

Several studies show that it interferes with the hormonal system and is also very well absorbed. According to one report, it is found in the blood of most Americans (where it is allowed in higher concentrations). Of particular concern is its interference with the endocrine system in children. It can cause allergic reactions when applied to the skin, especially when exposed to light. Dangerous to corals (can cause viral outbreaks). The EU currently recommends a concentration of 2.2%. EWG page
It may be listed under a number of alternative names in the ingredients list of cosmetics. Unfortunately, despite the above risks, it is found in many products available in Hungary and even in products for children.

2) Octinoxate - EWG score 4 (concern)

The EU has already stated that there is strong evidence that it is a potent endocrine disruptor, affecting sexual behaviour, sexual maturation, reproductive systems and thyroid hormones in rat studies. Several studies have shown that it is absorbed and released in the human body after up to 24 hours of use. Because of its environmental impact, the use of products containing it has been banned in several countries. EWG page

3) Homosalate - EWG score: 4 (concern)

It is very well absorbed by the human body. It has less hormone-disrupting effects than the first two chemical sunscreens, but there are concerns about contamination with substances that may be more worrying. Because of its endocrine disrupting properties, the EU only allows limited use in cosmetic products such as sunscreens (this is not necessarily the case in non-EU countries, where products purchased may contain very high levels). EWG page

4) Octisalate - EWG score: 3 (concern)

This chemical sunscreen has a relatively modest "rap sheet". The main concerns are that it is very well absorbed through the skin into the human body and that some reports suggest it is contact-allergenic. EWG page

5) Octocrylene - EWG score: 3 (concern)

Octocrylene has recently come into the public eye as a coral-destroying chemical sunscreen, but of course there are more problems than that. Like other chemical sunscreens, it accumulates in the human body and is a potential allergen. Often contaminated with the potentially carcinogenic benzophenone. It also has an effect on the endocrine system, but is currently thought by, for example, EU bodies to have a negligible hormone disrupting effect at 10% (if it can kill corals, it must have an effect on other living organisms?) EWG page

6) Avobenzone- EWG score: 2 (acceptable)

Avobenzone is a relatively acceptable chemical sunscreen: it does not cause allergies, and there is no clear research on its absorption. But unfortunately, one study suggests that this ingredient also interferes with the hormonal system and may influence testosterone levels. Two other warning signs are that it is known to modify cellular DNA by exposure to sunlight (but in the scientific world it is a study, not a research and so far no more research has confirmed this suspicion) and its possible contamination with other substances (which, as contamination is not indicated on the label). EWG site

The above list only includes the most common chemical sunscreens, several others are also found in sunscreens available on the Hungarian market, for which even less research or information is available. In any case, I suggest you find out what's in the sunscreen you want to buy, even by checking the ingredients one by one on-line.

Chemical sunscreens, yes or no?

Concerns have been raised about almost all chemical sunscreens: therefore, if you are more sensitive for some reason: because you have a hormonal disease, an autoimmune condition, or are looking for a sunscreen for children/babies (as their hormonal systems are still developing, they may be more sensitive to these ingredients), it is strongly recommended to avoid chemical sunscreens. There are better and much safer alternatives available.

The most common physical sunscreens

The list of physical sunscreens is relatively stable. In terms of ingredients, the biggest challenge here is to make sure you know the size of the ingredient. In addition, nano size can cover quite significant size differences and ingredients with different shapes and coatings. Currently, the biggest concern with these is that there is not enough research data to provide information on the extent of absorption or its effects.

1) Titanium dioxide - EWG score: 1-3 (acceptable)

Titanium dioxide has recently been given a rather inglorious colour, with many people starting to refer to it as a carcinogen. Well, titanium dioxide can indeed be carcinogenic: if you inhale it and it gets into your lungs or your digestive system. So it's really very worrying that it's used not only as a sunscreen but also as a food colouring. So the first and most important thing to know is not to use sunscreen in SPRAY form, as neither of these substances are really good to inhale even in the slightest amount.

If you look at it this way, any perfume, chemical or even skin-friendly precious oil can be very harmful to our lungs when sprayed and inhaled.

When applied, however, the situation is different: if it is not nano sized, its absorption is limited. As it is not absorbed, but reflects UV rays like a mirror, it is harmless as a sunscreen(but titanium dioxide is the more worrying of the physical sunscreens) .

2) Zinc oxide - EWG score: 1-3 (acceptable)

Zinc oxide is the most risk-free physical sunscreen. Anti-inflammatory, beneficial to the skin. There are also question marks about the nano-size of the absorption rate. It can also be toxic if inhaled as a powder and can cause diarrhoea if ingested. It is therefore not recommended for use in spray form, however convenient it may be. EWG page

Physical sunscreens: yes or no?

Yes, but sensibly. It's worth thinking about when you can protect yourself from the sun's rays in other ways (e.g. shade, clothing) and, as we've said, not using a spray.

Compared to the risk of skin ageing or potential melanoma caused by UV radiation, physical sunscreens pose minimal risk if used properly. So, given a choice, physical sunscreens are recommended!

Is there anything else to look out for when choosing a sunscreen?

Yes. On the one hand, sunscreens can contain other ingredients of concern in addition to sunscreens, and on the other hand, they can also contain excellent active ingredients to protect the skin from the damaging effects of UV rays, so rejuvenating your skin with a good sunscreen is easy.

It is worth considering that:

• what preservatives it contains: hormone disruptors or contact allergens may be of particular concern 
• what other potentially allergenic ingredients they contain. It is worth looking specifically at what fragrances they contain, as fragrances are often allergenic.
• contains a vitamin A derivative that is otherwise beneficial to the skin. Vitamin A derivatives are photosensitive, specifically retinyl palmitate has been shown in one study to specifically increase the risk of melanoma when exposed to UV light. Whatever their positive effects on our skin, it is best to use them in products for night use and specifically avoid them in sunscreens.

What skin protection/rejuvenating ingredients can be added to a sunscreen?

• the more antioxidants, the better! - Such as: Jericho rose extract, Totarol super antioxidant, Stable vitamins C, Tomato lycopene, Anatto extract
• active ingredients to promote healthy and even melanin synthesis - Signal peptides, enzymatically regulate the formation and persistence of normal brown pigments in the skin, and carotene-containing herbs such as Anatto extract, beta carotene from beetroot are also essential in a good sunscreen, sunscreen oil
• soothing active ingredients - the effects of UV rays cause inflammation of connective tissue and skin - we see this as redness, sunburn - so aloe gel, mimosa extract, mallow extract do us a great service because they are also great for prevention, blocking the ageing of the skin caused by inflammation
• anti-wrinkle active ingredients - the drying effect of the sun needs to be counteracted to prevent the skin from wrinkling - high-tech moisturising complexes are therefore essential - 4 levels of hyaluronic acid, collagen protein, panthenol, ceramides, in addition to moisturising and softening, intensively strengthen the skin

In summary: 

What are the criteria for an effective sunscreen cosmetic?

• helps to protect the skin naturally - supports the production of brown melanin
• increases the skin's ability to protect against UV radiation (cellular protection)
• adequate light protection (physical protection)
• supports the skin, reduces skin ageing
• properly moisturises and nourishes the skin
• safe to use (does not contain synthetically produced chemicals, chemical sunscreens, preservatives and fragrances, or skin damaging substances such as mineral oils)

DRHAZI sunscreens are formulated with natural plant oils and extracts in the base formulation to provide cellular protection, while the special biotechnology sunscreen complex provides physical protection to the skin. In addition, all the ingredients in our formulations support skin functions, helping the skin to restore its own defenses and maintain its youthfulness.