Valuable high-tech active ingredients in a jar

1. PEPTIDES - THE MIRACLE OF CELLULAR REGENERATION

A new era of innovative drug discovery is represented by purpose-built peptides, which are often surprisingly short structurally, consisting of up to 4-5 amino acids.These short peptides are functionally molecules and act only on the cells they target and in exactly the way we expect them to.

They bind to the appropriate receptors on the cells, where they activate internal signal transduction chainswhich alter the function of the cells. For example, they stimulate or inhibit the production of a protein.

The specific targets of rejuvenating peptides are the fibroblasts of the dermis, mainly elastin and collagen. A protein network composed of collagen and elastin is responsible for keeping our skin firm and youthful. Certain peptides stimulate fibroblasts to produce new collagen and elastin, and thus intense cell renewal in the skin. The new fibres also have a better ability to bind water, so they cushion the skin almost from the inside, smoothing out the wrinkles and fine lines on the surface. The regenerating effect is long-lasting and spectacular.

Dipeptides, tripeptides, tetrapeptides and oligopeptides are distinguished according to the number of amino acids involved. 

• A tripeptides activate the inactivating TGF-ß (Tissue Growth Factor), thereby enhancing collagen synthesis. 
• From oligopeptides stimulate GAG (glucose aminoglycan) and collagen synthesis, promoting the strengthening of the collagen network. Through the peptides, fibroblast cells receive a signal and activate collagen and elastin production, resulting in intensive cell renewal. The new fibres also have a better water-binding capacity and thus cushion the skin almost from the inside, smoothing out the wrinkles that are visible on the surface. For better bioavailability, a palmitoyl side chain is attached to the protein, usually containing 3 or 4, less frequently 6-8 amino acids. 
• A Matrixyl 6 is a messenger peptide that regulates cellular activity. It activates genes involved in the renewal of connective tissue and cells. It can reduce the depth of wrinkles by up to 45% in two months.
• A biomimetic peptides activate the main support structures of the dermis and epidermis in a physiological way. They inhibit the ageing process of the skin, enhancing and strengthening the characteristics of young skin. Argireline - inhibits the release of acetylcholine at the nerve endings, thus preventing the abnormal contraction of muscle fibres and the development of mimic wrinkles. Reduces the depth of mimic wrinkles by 30% in 28 days.

2. CONNECTIVE TISSUE - SCAFFOLD REGENERATING AGENTS

The extracellular matrix plays an essential role in keeping the skin firm, plump and vital. This intercellular network, from the epidermis to the dermis and connective tissue, forms the skin's support structure (Dermal Epidermal Junction). With age, this network becomes increasingly damaged, the skin dries out, thins and loses elasticity.

• A Ceramide complex is a multi-lamellar lipid concentrate containing all the substances necessary for the formation of the cellular matrix. It strengthens the skin's defences, stimulates intercellular communication and supports fibroblasts. Deeper wrinkles can be reduced by up to 38% in 2 months. Cosmetics made with it are called DMS - Dermal Matrix System type cosmetics.

3. protection from connective tissue glycation

The dipeptides encapsulated in liposomes protect collagen fibres from glycation, thereby reducing the number of damaged cell wall fragments. Glycation means that sugars, mainly glucose, are attached to the amino acid side chains of proteins, non-enzymatically, to form cross-links. These cross-links fix collagen fibres to each other, creating a rigid, inflexible network with a sheet-like structure - and any change in shape leaves a permanent mark: a wrinkle is formed. 

4. PLANT COLLAGEN FOR PERFECT HYDRATION

Over time, the elasticity of collagen fibres in the skin decreases, making them more rigid and reducing their ability to absorb water. This is particularly visible around the eyes and mouth. The main source of plant collagen is the leaves and fruit of the (Australian) acacia tree. The effect is to improve the structure of the fibres supporting the skin and to make the contours of the face more beautiful.

5. 3 LEVELS OF HYALURONIC ACIDS FOR LONG-LASTING HYDRATION

Plant hyaluronic acidis produced biotechnologically (by fermentation) from glucose, soy peptone and yeast extract. It contributes greatly to skin hydration, exfoliation and a beautiful complexion. According to molecular weight, a distinction is made between macro, medium and micro hyaluronic acid. When used in combination, they support and enhance each other.

• Macro (800-1200 KDa) - the most commonly used hyaluronic acid. It acts in the top layer of the skin, its molecules simply attract water, hydrating collagen and elastin fibres. It can bind up to 500 times its weight in water.
• Medium (<50 kDa) - a bőr mélyebb rétegébe hatol, ahol különleges hatásával védi a bőrt a káros UV sugaraktól. Az erős UV sugárzás hatására egy káros szabad gyök képződik a bőrben (hidrogénperoxid), a médium hialuronsav megemeli a bőrben a kataláz enzim szintjét, ami ezt a hidrogén-peroxidot vízzé és savvá alakítja át. Emellett gátolja a gyulladáskeltő anyagok hatását a bőrben.
• Micro (<5000 Da) - a bőr legmélyebb rétegébe jut el, ahol fontos szignálpeptidek kiválasztására ösztönzi az őssejteket. Ezen szignálpeptidek segítik a szöveti struktúrák újjáépítését. Ugyanakkor fokozza a saját hialuronsav termelődését is a szövetetkben, ezáltal a bőr tartósan feszes és rugalmas lesz. Emellett gátolja a szövetbontó enzim működését (Mátrix Metallo Proteináz), így meghosszabbítja a kollagén és elasztin életciklusát.

6. LIPOSOMES TO PROMOTE THE INCORPORATION OF ACTIVE SUBSTANCES

This is coupled with new advanced carriers, in which active ingredients bound to special particles penetrate the lipid barrier layers and release the bound active ingredient only where it is needed. This is a very important innovative development. Examples of liposomal active ingredients are Lacto ceramide and Coenzyme Q10, but there are also commonly used liposome complexwhich, when included in the formulation, helps to target all the skin's active ingredients.

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